Scientific Skincare: Your Questions Answered​

Q1: With so many types of skincare products available—cleansers, emulsions, serums, creams, etc.—which ones are absolutely essential?​​​​A:​​ There is no single product type that is mandatory for everyone. Skincare should be based on the fundamental principles: ​​Cleansing, Moisturizing, and Sun Protection​​.From this logical perspective:

  1. ​Cleansers​​ are essential for removing impurities.
  2. ​Sunscreen​​ is crucial for daily protection against UV damage.
  3. ​Moisturizers​​ are key for maintaining the skin’s hydration barrier.

However, each of these essential steps can be achieved with different product formulations (e.g., a moisturizing lotion, cream, or gel). Therefore, the decision shouldn’t be based solely on the product type, but rather on your ​​specific skin needs and the context​​ (e.g., climate, skin type). The “essential” product is the one that effectively fulfills the core function for your skin.​

​Q2: Collagen products are very popular now, but some people call them a “IQ tax.” Is this true?​​​​A:​​ The market is indeed flooded with various types of collagen, from animal-derived to bio-synthesized recombinant collagen.Labeling all collagen products as an “IQ tax” is an overstatement. ​​Topically applied collagen​​ has legitimate uses in skincare. Particularly in the field of ​​medical-grade dressings or masks​​, applying collagen to the skin helps create a moist wound-healing environment, which genuinely aids skin recovery.However, I am skeptical of many marketing claims about miraculous functions or specific molecular configurations that supposedly allow topical collagen to rebuild the skin’s own collagen network. For general skincare products, the evidence for such transformative effects is weak, and these exaggerated claims certainly border on being an “IQ tax.” The true value of topical collagen lies more in its hydrating and protective film-forming properties.​

Q3: When using anti-acne products, why do breakouts sometimes seem to worsen at the beginning?​​​​A:​​ This initial “purging” or flare-up can be a normal reaction. Anti-acne products are designed to target the physiological mechanisms of acne development (e.g., promoting keratinocyte renewal, controlling sebum, reducing inflammation, regulating microflora).Acne lesions develop through stages: from microcomedones to whiteheads/blackheads, and then to inflammatory papules and pustules. Ingredients that accelerate skin cell turnover can ​​”bring existing, brewing clogs to the surface faster.”​​ What you perceive as a “breakout” might actually be the accelerated maturation of pre-existing microcomedones that were already under the skin.

  • ​Is this normal?​​ It can be, especially if it’s temporary and the skin starts to improve afterwards.
  • ​When is it not normal?​​ If the breakout is severe, continues to worsen with ongoing use, or shows signs of significant irritation (redness, burning, itching), it may indicate that the product is too harsh or that you are having an adverse reaction. In such cases, you should discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

​Disclaimer:​​ This information is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Individual skin responses may vary.

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