Chemical peeling, also known as chemical exfoliation, is a technique that involves applying chemical substances to the skin’s surface to create a controlled level of injury. This process stimulates the regeneration of the skin’s epidermis and dermis, thereby treating and improving various skin concerns. A 2020 report from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) highlighted chemical peels as the most popular minimally invasive cosmetic procedure.With the advancement of dermatological aesthetics, “acid peeling” has become the mainstream method, with “alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) peels” being predominant in clinical settings. In medical-grade acid peels, the most commonly used acids in China are: ① Glycolic Acid, ② Salicylic Acid, and ③ Lactic Acid. Below is a brief introduction to each for your reference.1. Glycolic AcidGlycolic Acid, a type of Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA).
- Molecular Formula: C₂H₄O₃
- Molecular Weight: 76.05
Key Characteristics for Peeling:
- The AHA with the smallest known molecular size.
- The preferred choice for AHA peels (high concentrations like 20%, 30%, 50%, 70%).
- Possesses exceptional penetration ability.
- Offers excellent exfoliating properties.
- Helps收敛 and minimize pores (due to strong acidity) and controls sebum production.
- Caution: Can be highly irritating if concentration is not properly controlled. Improper management of the peeling endpoint can easily lead to adverse reactions.
2. Salicylic AcidSalicylic Acid, a type of Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA).
- Molecular Formula: C₇H₆O₃
- Molecular Weight: 138.12
Key Characteristics for Peeling (Commonly used at 30% concentration):
- Lipophilic (oil-soluble), allowing it to exfoliate within the sebum-filled follicles, providing deep exfoliation.
- Exhibits antibacterial properties.
- Has anti-inflammatory properties (it is the active component in Aspirin).
- Effective for Acne: Due to exfoliation, sebum suppression, and anti-inflammatory actions.
- Brightening Effect: Inhibits tyrosinase activity.
- Disadvantages: Can be irritating to the skin, not well-tolerated by sensitive skin, and can be inconvenient to apply (often requires massage for penetration).
3. Lactic AcidLactic Acid, also a type of Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA).
- Molecular Formula: C₃H₆O₃
- Molecular Weight: 90.08
Key Characteristics for Peeling:
Caution: Can still be unfriendly to sensitive skin, potentially causing irritation, stinging, or itching.
An AHA with a molecular weight closest to Glycolic Acid.
Commonly used at concentrations like 20%, 30%, 50%, 70%.
Also has very strong penetration capability.
Provides excellent exfoliation.
Helps收敛 pores and control sebum secretion.
A homologous component found naturally in the human body (it’s part of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) in the epidermis, offering hydrating benefits at low concentrations).
